Here we are in humid north-eastern Brazil, a wind-driven landscape of sandy village streets, beautiful lagoons and massive dunes. A fisherman named João kindly gave us a ride from Jericoacoara down the Rio Preguiças (‘lazy river’) to where the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park begins. With my Portuguese at 0% and Leroy’s at not much more, it was an entertaining trip.
The dunes flicker and roll for around 100km along the coastline, sheltering endless freshwater lagoons, and which are still full of lilies, turtles and fish at this time of year. We have been wandering, picking a lagoon at whim and swimming, and then wandering some more. The only downside is the wind (did I mention the wind?) My eyes and nostrils are lined with fine sand.
We’ll need to head back to Jeri before sunset, to watch the capoeristas practicing on the beach. Leroy is pretty keen to give it a whirl – he just informed me that he studied capoeira for a couple of years when he was living in New Orleans. I’m no longer sceptical when he tells me things like this, because they invariably turn out to be true.